I have a Chinese mini lathe and it has the usual issue of breaking motors and control circuits.
My lathe needed a new control circuit at £90 and a new motor at £86. Both +P&P.
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C3-Mini-Lathe-Spares Now my first thought was “Are you taking the expletive?!” I could build one for a quarter of that… plus a solid weekend. You can buy much better technology for much cheaper. Brushed motors are archaic. Brushless are the future! I’ve been wanting to upgrade the motor and control to a three phase brushless DC for a while. This seemed like the perfect excuse. I did the research found out the original motor did 2500 rpm, rated at 240VDC 2A. The upgrade motor for the C3 mini lathe is 350w and does 6000 rpm. I found a 149kv motor. kv means rpm/volt. At 24 volts this would be doing roughly 3576rpm which would be ideal. It also has a 8mm shaft so it would be a straight swap out for the original motor.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__37213__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_6374_149kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=149kv I found a 25A 24v power supply to pump out 600W max.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300944840662?var=600224822408&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 I found a 200A speed controller for £30. The power supply can only provide 25A and the motor should only pull 10A so 200 is massively overkill. Exactly what we want because it will add robustness to the system.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121344627700 The original motor had grub screws tapped into the motor casing to act as the mount. I would have to make a motor mount to hold the new motor so that the shaft is in the same position as the original. I started with the mounting plate. Used the one that came with the motor as a template, roughly measured the diameter of the motor and used the radius to define the depth. I found a sheet of steel just the right size for the lathe interface pate hold it in place, and marked up where the holes needed to be drilled for the bolts to go through. I welded these two together and test fitted it. So far so good. I know these motors can kick out rather a lot of torque so I’m keen to strengthen the mount and ensure it is robust. I chop out a couple of gussets and weld them on. The eagle eyed of you may notice that these pieces of steel are different to the others. When I was jigging up for welding I noticed they weren’t magnetic. Fear not! It turns out that stainless welds to mild no problem! After this I tacked on the captive nuts and cleaned up the welds so that it would sit flat in position. Test fit and all seems good.
Time for a test drive, I solder the appropriate bullet connectors on the wires for the Speed Controller and fabricate some spade terminals out of some copper pipe. Heat shrink it up and it’s almost ready to go.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261487688895?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 The speed controller needs a pulse width modulated square wave input to control the motor rpm. Luckily Hobby King do a servo tester for about £3.50 that will produce one for us from an on board potentiometer.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31878__Hobbyking_LED_Servo_Tester_UK_Warehouse_.html These servo testers need a 5V power supply to run. I get a 5V, 5A regulator off ebay for £9.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261225817711?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Everything runs just as it should, jolly good! Time for some integration. I strip out the old circuit and make room for the new electronics. I wire the mains into the control box emergency stop switch, then out to the AC-DC converter I have out the back of the lathe. I remove the pot from the servo tester and wire in the one from the original lathe. Since it’s a Pot, it doesn’t really matter what the resistance values are, I check they’re reasonable with a multi-meter just in case.
I want forward and reverse to work so I wire in the original switch with two of the phases, if you swap the wires between two of the phases of a brushless DC, it will rotate in the opposite direction. To do this I bought some nice silicone wire for £7.50.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301193422877?var=600257103735&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 The placement of the speed controller, voltage regulator, and servo tester mean the cables are a bit of a stretch so I bought some extension cables for £2
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191106121843?var=490285058155&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Quick test drive and everything works as it should. Now my main goal here is robustness and longevity so I want to keep an eye on the system and ensure I’m not straining it too much. The main worries are pulling too many amps from the power supply, getting the speed controller too hot, and getting the motor too hot. To keep an eye on motor and ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) Temperatures I buy two of these temperature sensors for £2 each:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141290372167?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 To keep an eye on the power usage and amps, I get a power meter for £10:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301149839071?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Wire these in and were ready for the first test cut. I have an aluminium component in the lathe from the electric bike so I take a few cuts on this. No worries, much smoother than the original system. Now I need to neaten up those wires and mount the electronics. The easiest place is on the back of the chip guard. I line up the power supply and drill through the mounting holes placing a bolt in each hole as it’s drilled. I do the same with the voltage regulator. The ESC doesn’t have any mounting holes and it’s pretty late at night so I just duct taped it on for now. I’ll make a mount for it another time. Realistically when the tape fails. I got my bolts here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221307549544?var=520187427102&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
and nuts here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360650014234?var=630118289301&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Since I needed to check the motor RPM was as it should be, I bought an rpm meter while I was at it. It only cost £10 and I’m sure it’ll come in handy. Motor RPM was bang on the money.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291105855195?var=590257804048&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Since it’s been finished I’ve finished that part that was in the lathe, and one other job. So far the system I put in it holding up nicely. No signs of any issues. The only problem has been making sure I do the motor mount bolts up tight enough. They aren’t nyloc nuts so they have a tendency to vibrate loose. I might look into a more robust mounting solution another time, but for now, I have an electric bike to finish!
Here is a circuit diagram:
It depends on if your ESC can supply power to your Servo tester as to if you need a BEC to step down the 24V to power your Servo Tester.